Wednesday, March 3, 2010

February in Oman

Hi Everyone -- February has come and gone and it passed with little to report other than my recent trip to Muscat, Oman. School continues to be very busy and March will be no exception. Report cards, online course, active students -- all in a day's work.

Let me at least tell you about my jaunt to Muscat, Oman. I left school early on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 -- noon to be exact. They arranged a substitute teacher for my class so I could enjoy an early release as I had a 2:30 flight to catch. I had previously packed and brought my luggage to school on the morning bus.

It felt great leaving early and being free for 4+ days. I was fine with being alone as well. My flight was smooth and quick -- I was in Oman in 40 minutes. My initial impressions of Muscat were that it was a beautiful city -- very clean and greened. Lots of flowers and more developed than I imagined. Fancy street lamps and attractive roundabouts with fountains and decorative motifs. I would soon find out just how friendly the Omani people were as well.

That late afternoon and evening I didn't do too much -- I wasn't sure of the lay of the city and had to make inquiries about how to get around and what I wanted to see. I wondered around a bit and stayed close to the hotel as I became accustomed to my surroundings. The lonliness finally set in and I wished I had a travel companion that evening. My hotel (Ibis Hotel) was a modest, urban, business hotel located in Al Khwuair. I was very comfortable in the hotel overall.

The next day (Thursday), I had the hotel concierge make arrangements for a taxi to tour me around Muscat to see what the city had in store for me. I soon learned that everything closes around 1:00 and does not reopen until after 4:00 -- I found this really hindered my afternoons. Thursday evening I headed for the Souk which was in the heart of an area called Mattrah. This was a lively and plentiful souk with so much to see -- people, colourful wall hangings, lots of jewelery and black-clad women with veiled faces. The men wear the traditional dish-dash like they do in the UAE, but their head covering is different. I wandered around for about 4 hours and eventually was taking pictures when I came upon a couple Omani men posing for my camera. I joked with them and they obligingly allowed me to snap their picture. It appeared that they spoke english and started chatting with me. It turns out that there were more of them -- 6 brothers to be exact!! They are from a family of 12 children (9 brothers and 3 sisters). One brother had lived in Texas and another in Rhodes Island in the U.S. They were so friendly and hospitable. They asked where I was from and advised me on what to see during my stay in Oman. They inquired where my husband and children were (the eternal question that everyone asks here). I told them I was traveling alone and they seemed unphased by that. We said our good-byes and went our separate ways.

As I continued to stroll the marketplace, one of the brothers returned to find me and offer his services for the next couple of days. He insisted on taking me all around Muscat the next day and to the interior of Oman the following day. I coyly told him that I was a good girl, being cautious about his offer, and he agreed but still insisted on showing Omani hospitality. Without too much worry and concern I threw caution to the wind and accepted his most generous offer. I now had a plan to see Oman with a first-rate tour guide -- an Omani national!!

Friday came and Yousuf Alisimaili showed up as scheduled to start my whirlwind tour of Muscat. We started with the fish market in Mattrah -- holy fowl smell!! It was a sight to see and I got some great pictures. From there we went to the Al Bustan Palace Hotel and had a cool beverage. During our entire time together, I was free to ask my wonderful host questions about Islam and life in Oman. Yousuf took me to Sultan Qaboos' palace and into the mountains. I didn't realize what a mountainous region Oman is. Muscat is a beautiful seaside community that boosts gorgeous beaches, sparkling water, majestic mountains and very friendly people. The people are very loyal to their ruler, Sultan Qaboos, who seems to be most beloved by the Omanis. Their lives seem very simple and happy!! Yousuf and I then ventured to a farm to see goats, camels, and cows. I got up close to all these animals and held a newly born baby goat who reminded me of Cricket. One of the cows was in labour but we didn't stick around for the live birth -- that probably would have traumatized me!!

Yousuf finally took me to his home in Al Wadi al Kabeer where I met his wife and 4 children. His wife, Zahra, was most gracious receiving me without any notice and immediately fed me lunch. The children were so polite -- each of them coming up and shaking my hand to welcome me. I have lost some of my notes, but I do remember 3 or the 4 children's names: Taha, Aya, Alyazen and Maan . We visited for a while and then Yousuf informed me that he would take me to a fantastic beach to meet up with his brothers and all their children. There was a caravan of vehicles that followed each other over bumpy terrain to a stunning beach. Each brother had so many children -- many of them wanted up to 6 children each -- can you imagine?? The children swam and the brothers played soceer on the beach. I believe the beach was in an area called Yitti.

We left the beach at sunset and headed up into the mountains for spectacular views. We finished the evening with a visit to Yousuf's parents' home to meet up again with all the brothers (7 now, as 1 had just returned from Dubai). They welcomed me into their home and we sat on the floor cushions (traditional style -- no sofas) and shared dates, fruit and coffee. His mother was a warm, smiling woman who had 13 children in all (one died young) -- this amazed me. His father was equally friendly opening up his home to a complete stranger. I was then delivered back to my hotel. It was a full day and Yousuf advised we would be going to Oman's interior the next day. I encouraged him to bring his children for a day of sightseeing.

Saturday, Yousuf picked me up at 7:30 a.m. with 3 of his children along for the adventure. Starting first with the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque to see if it was open -- I had heard it was closed to commemorate the Prophet Mohamad's birthday. Yousuf found out we could get in and we were on the hunt for a head scarf for me. All the stores were closed due to the early hour so he drove up and down the streets looking to borrow a head scarf from someone. He found a young Omani man and asked him if he could go into his house and get one from his wife, mother, sister -- whomever had a spare one lying around. The young man came out with his father and a head scarf. Yousuf greeted them and they happily gave him the scarf as a gift to me for my mosque visit. We made our way to the mosque and it was quite beautiful. Very different from the elaborate white mosque in Abu Dhabi which is the resting place of Sheikh Zayed. It had lovely gardens and was extremely peaceful. The design and layout were inviting and the grandeur was opulent. The head scarf did the trick and I was pleased that Yousuf had made such an effort so I could see this impressive mosque. We traveled to Nizwa, a neighbouring city about 1.5 hrs. away. We visited the souk and I decided to have my ears repierced. Yousuf took me to a clinic and even paid for it. We went to Nizwa Fort and lunched at "The Hungry Bunny" a McDonald's knock-off. He showed me how the water system worked called "falaj daris". It is how the towns, forts and castles would get their water. We then traveled onward to visit Jabreen Castle. We made a pit-stop at Yousuf's father-in-law's home so he could see if they had any fresh baked bread. I waited in the car as he and the children would only be a few minutes. Arriving back to the hotel around 6:00, I was exhausted and glad to unwind alone for the evening.

Sunday I toured around alone making my way to Al Quurm (I think) to Sabco Centre and to The City Centre. Muscat is a very spread out city and you need a car, taxi or, in my case, a local friend. Yousuf and his beautiful wife picked me up at my hotel in the evening and delivered me to the airport. He took care of my bags and welcomed me back to Oman anytime and they promised to once again be my hosts. I left them with a gift of OMR (Rials) which they politely refused, but I politely insisted. They had been so wonderful to me -- taking me all over, using their gas and vehicles, inviting me into their home and into their family. It was the least I could do.

When I returned to the UAE, i texted Yousuf to inform him of my safe return. He told me they took the OMR and bought his wife a beautiful Tissot watch. I was thrilled that my gift could have been used in such a way. A wonderful trip because of the generosity and adventurous spirt of one man and his family. Would we do the same in the comfort of our own lives? These people showed me their joyous spirits and it humbled me!!

1 comment:

  1. Awesome post - what a lovely man. Boy, am I learning a lot from your posts. I need to crawl out from my rock about the rest of the world!


    Jackie

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